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PERPETUAL CALENDAR

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創造一枚能歷經時間考驗、其功能永恆有效的時計。此一目標正是莫里茨·格羅斯曼全新PERPETUAL CALENDER腕錶背後的願景。其機械結構能永久保持正確的日期顯示,即使面對不同月份長度與閏年亦然。此複雜功能被視為製錶業最偉大的挑戰之一,融合了精準技術與工藝大師的匠心。

為慶祝品牌重新成立 17 週年,這家來自格拉蘇蒂的製錶工坊呈獻此令人驚嘆的全新設計。自 2008 年克莉絲蒂娜·胡特 (Christine Hutter) 讓歷史悠久的莫里茨·格羅斯曼之名重獲新生以來,該品牌始終代表著古典機械工藝、當代設計與至高製錶技藝的結合。

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Moritz Grossmann celebrates the 17th anniversary with a grand complication

PERPETUAL CALENDER

Details

The perpetual calendar indicators

Moon phase display

Convenient operation

The perpetual calendar indicators

Traditionally, a perpetual calendar combines a variety of information on a single dial. Arranging this information in an appealing way is a challenge of its own. The Moritz Grossmann PERPETUAL CALENDAR offers a symmetrical and clear dial where all the indicators come together to form a single, harmonious picture.

Both the watch’s appearance and its legibility benefit from the way the date is presented on a ring running around the dial, with a full date scale from 1 to 31 printed on it. To distinguish the date display from the hour and minute hands and keep the face tidy and clear, there is a cup-shaped indicator on the outside that marks the current date by framing it. Another ring further in on the dial has a fine radiant cut to it that bolsters the elegant appearance.

The month and day of the week are displayed on two subsidiary dials left and right of centre, at 3 and 9 o’clock. They are decorated using a refined Azurage technique, just as the small seconds are. This technique involves a circular pattern of ultra-thin grooves which catch the light in an intriguing and appealing way. Each of these subsidiary dials has a small window at its centre. One of them serves as a leap year indicator, as the hallmark of a perpetual calendar is its knowledge of leap years and indication of the 29th of February every four years. The second small window is a day–night display which makes it easier to link the time with the date when setting the watch.

Moon phase display

The 12 o’clock position features a poetic moon phase display where a gleaming mother-of-pearl moon tracks across a dark night’s sky with small, sparkling stars. The soft glow of the moon is set against a goldstone background which is illuminated by small copper crystals. Together, it is all reminiscent of a starry night’s sky.

Convenient operation

Correctors are located on the sides of the case for all the displays on the PERPETUAL CALENDAR. Using them, the date, day of the week, month and moon phase can quickly be set and coordinated. The correctors are recessed subtly into the case and are operated with a special tool that comes with the watch.

The timepiece offers a further special feature in the form of a sum corrector. If the watch goes a few days without being wound, this pusher is all the wearer needs to revise the date since the day-of-week, month and moon phase indicators will all follow automatically.

The Calibre 101.13

Discover everything about the heart of the PERPETUAL CALENDAR.

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Tech Specs

機芯

101.13 型自製機芯、手動上鏈、五方位調校

特點

壓入式軸桿帶有刀鋒滾軸,衝擊銷位於擺陀中(格拉蘇蒂樣式);搭載微調螺絲的微調計調校裝置;仿效莫里茨·格羅斯曼懷錶歷史典範的 2/3 夾板;支柱採用未經處理的德國銀材質;以螺絲固定的凸出黃金套筒;拉出錶冠時安全滾軸的停秒功能;透過側方按鈕解鎖指針設定並啟動機芯;帶有 2 齒回退功能的齒輪棘輪

功能

小時與分鐘顯示,小秒針附停秒裝置,日期、星期、月份、月相顯示,格羅斯曼按鈕式手動上鏈裝置

機芯

401 個(輪系系統 190 個/萬年曆模組 211 個

寶石

37 顆寶石,其中 4 顆為黃金套筒,3 個以螺絲固定

擒縱系統

錨式擒縱

擺動系統

防震式軸承固定格羅斯曼擺陀,帶有 4 個平頭螺絲與 2 個微調螺絲,位於下部的 Nivarox 1 游絲帶有 80 號末端曲線,形狀源於古斯塔夫·戈斯騰柏格(Gustav Gerstenberger)

擺輪直徑

14.2 毫米,振頻 18,000 次/小時

動力儲存

上滿鏈 42 小時

操控零件

玫瑰金/鉑金錶冠,用於腕錶上鏈與時間設定,玫瑰金/鉑金機芯啟動按鈕,玫瑰金/鉑金校正器用於設定日期、星期、月份與月相,玫瑰金/鉑金快速同步校正器,用於更新日期顯示

錶殼尺寸

直徑:41.0 毫米,厚度:13.9 毫米

機芯尺寸

直徑:36.4 毫米,厚度:8.3 毫米

錶殼

三件式,玫瑰金/鉑金材質

錶盤

銀白色,銀白色/炭黑色,內環圈飾以放射狀紋理打磨,輔助小錶盤飾以 Azurage 雕飾,時標以立體鑲貼件呈現,月相顯示盤為金粉流光材質,月亮以珍珠母貝製成

指針

手工製作、拋光玫瑰金,鋼質,藍色退火

錶鏡與透明錶底

單面防反光藍寶石水晶

錶帶

手工縫製鱷魚皮錶帶,帶有實心玫瑰金/鉑金針扣

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PERPETUAL CALENDAR

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